When mounting fibre tails , I proceed as follows. I always try to use the original shots of the original bench, in front to the tank, I laminate a fibre sheet so that the original clamping can be used. At the back I laminate the strap of the original seat lock, or as in the case of the LS650 I use a cross plate and laminate a composite screw. So I can fix the tail with a self-locking nut solid. In addition, visible screws look ugly. When laminating parts, make sure to sand the surface properly to ensure a solid connection. In order to properly fix the sheet metal, the seat lock or the composite screw before lamination, I use glass fiber putty as an adhesive. I position the retainers in the correct position, allow the glass fiber putty to cure, and then fully concentrate on laminating without worrying about the retaining elements being moved into position.
In order to compensate for differences in height, model foam boards are ideal. PU foam is very good with the cutter knife or by file or sandpaper editable, but dissolves, above all, not in contact with the solvent styrene (solvent in the polyester resin) on. PU foam is very light due to its open porosity.
Composite screw to be laminated in fiberglass rear
Laminated composite screw, so that keeps the fiberglass rear guaranteed!
Laminated GFK clamping plate, clamping as in the original rear.
My solution for the GFK rear intake in the Suzuki LS650 Savage
Laminating is done with a brush that is soaked in resin. Then the individual layers of glass fiber mats are impregnated with resin and stacked layer by layer. When laminating, be sure to include as few air bubbles as possible, the less air bubbles are in the laminate, the higher the strength! Very helpful here is a vent roller. A breather roller ensures, in addition to the vent for a better compaction of the individual layers. On sharp corners or edges you should use glass fiber chips, as the restoring force of the fabric can otherwise lead to delamination and thus the strength is not given. Alternatively, you can pluck fiberglass mat.
At the end you can wash out the tools with acetone. The optimum processing temperature for polyester resin is between 15 and 20 degrees. Under 10 degrees you should not work because the curing time is many times higher. Above 20 degrees, however, the cure time is greatly reduced and it may be that your laminate cures before you finish the process.
For the laminating brush it is important to make sure to choose a brush that has solvent resistant bristles, also the stem and and the bristle holder should of course be solvent resistant.
Polyester resin incl. Hardener and glass fiber mats can be found here.
When grinding and sawing fiberglass, pay attention to safety at work, a dust mask, protective goggles and gloves are a must!
When laminating polyester resin is a respirator with an effective protection against organic gases and vapors (protection level A2) is required, the styrene which is released during processing not only annoying, but is also harmful to health!
What is needed to adjust a fiberglass tail?
- Polyester resin and glass fiber mat
- mixing cup
- composite screw
- GRP plate
- dust mask
- safety goggles
Preparation of the workplace
- choose a well-ventilated room
- Use foil or cardboard as working material, because hardened resin can only be removed mechanically!
And now have fun implementing your ideas 🙂